Orhei Vecche

Before it is too late to actually talk about it, I want to report back on the trip that me and the rest of the former trainees took to a place called Orheiul Vecche.

Orhei Vecche is one of the most important archieological sites, if not *the* most important site, in Moldova. It is a strange place that lies in the midst of a strange geological formation.... a place that allows you to walk in the ruins of a Golden Horde bathhouse, crawl in the caves of Pre-Middle Ages Christian monks, and walk among the same cliffs that early man walked amongst - early man, as in *really* early man, the Neo-something or other, the cousins of the folks who were, at the same time, drawing those horses in France some 40,000 years ago.

Today Orheiul Vecche is a large site that lies between two super small villages. There is a large ridge that wraps around, and in the valley a "river" (more like a hyper creek) that wraps around a jut of land that must have formed a zillion years ago. In the ridge are many many many caves, carved out by previously mentioned early man and previously mentioned early Christians. We were told that the monks came to these caves to hide out when Chrstians were being persecuted for... something. Honestly, I'm not too sure of when and what they are referencing. The history of Moldova is varied and slightly confusing. This country is a hinge, a crossroads, and thus changed hands about a billion times.

Which is where the Golden Horde comes in. Apparently, at one point in time the area was controlled by Ghengis Khan, and he had some folks settle there, and they put in a bathhouse, a bathhouse that was, by all accounts and archieological evidence, an equal opportunity bathhouse.

Those Khan's were good for something.

Today, there is a large church that stands on the just of land, and there is still a monk/are still monks who live in the caves. We visited one, where I bought two icons and lit three candles, one for each of my grandmothers.

What I found to be most interesting was that, in the cave walls, people stick their coins - it's the Moldovan version of throwing pennies in a well or a fountain, I suppose.

I hope the pictures can do this place some justice. It was a very beautiful place, and very rich with history. There is something kind of thrilling about being there - I feel all Valley of the Horses and whatnot.








The cross above overlooks the valley... if you place your hand in the middle and make a wish, it's supposed to come true. Thus far, mine hasn't. The icon on the right is fairly typical of the icons seen *all over* the country.




Above are the caves that the monks lived in. The far right is the entrance to the cave that is still in operation... notice the ladder. (There is another entrance)



This is the ruins of the Golden Horde bathhouse.



The pennies and coins stuffed into the rocks of the caverns.